Hiking down the canyon on Bright Angel Trail
to meet the boats on the river.
August 18, 1983
God, I am so glad that the pages of this notebook have not gotten wet. We have waterproof bags to put our clothes, sleeping bag and pad in, but they still come out a little warped.
This is Wednesday, the second day on the river. It has been a blast. The days are so calm and peaceful. I have no calculation of time.
Let me tell you what happened yesterday. Yesterday we made the hike from the rim to Phantom Ranch where we met the boats. We slept in a camper two nights ago, the night before the hike. The owner of a hotel that we went to get a room had a camper in the back parking lot that he rents out when he gets full. It was a full trailer camper with a couch a TV, two beds that four of us slept in and a hide a way in the couch that Jim and AnnMarie slept in. The next morning we had a breakfast a a real fancy restaurant and we were an hour late to start the hike, but we were all starving.
The beginning of the hike was nice. It was hot, but the trails were windy. The whole time I had to constantly dodge mule shit and urine. It was disgusting, but that’s not the best part. The best part was that the hike took six hours to complete, plus the trails was all downhill, constantly. The trail, Bright Angel Trail, was nine miles long and wove throughout the canyon, along ledges, through brush. Luckily the weather was rainy, but it was still warm. Also, my pack was too big for me and my sleeping bag was positioned awkwardly so that I couldn’t put my head up straight. I stooped to carry the weight on my back instead of my hips where ti should have been.
Today we woke up at 7 AM to eggs and bacon for breakfast. Last night we had porkchops, salad and potatoes for dinner. The food is pretty good. The boatmen do all of the cooking and cleaning. All we have to do is enjoy the food. We do have to clean our own plates. The first bucket that we wash them in is hot and soapy and the second is hot rinse and the third is cold rinse with bleach.
We slept in tents constructed from tarps that are hung over strings. Plus the boatmen had an extra tent, so we set that one up to. Tonight, I am sleeping in the good tent.
I am so sore from the hike. During the hike my knees wee becoming so sore the last to or three miles I was hating life. Everybody kept passing me. Right now I am aching all over, especially my shins, knees, thighs, shoulders, arms and back. I was so sore last night that I could barely turn over in my sleep.
Today we went over a few big rapids. The water is freezing. After taking a couple of waves, we stopped to hike a little ways and look at the huge waves that we were to go over next. First, the boatmen had to check the rapids out for safety because they were so different and unpredictable. They finally decided that the waves were not safe to sail over, so we walked through a field of boulders while the boatmen took the rafts through Crystal Rapids.
They handled the boats really well. They know exactly how to maneuver the boats with the oars so that the boat goes exactly where the boatmen want them. Some of the waves are pretty big and the rapids are quick and strong that it is always best to have an experienced rower on the boat when rafting.
Let me tell you about the day following the first time I wrote. Remember, that night me and Lorrie stayed in a hotel room in Williams because we lost the other car. We later found out that they had already arrived at the campsite in the Canyon, but, it rained that night and they didn’t have a tent. So they bought a couple of tarps and strung them between two ties while Jim slept in the car. Soup is on now, so I’d better grab some before it is all gone.
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